THE ZEN OF BODY SURFING
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The waves down here have been fantastic all month long, whether the tide is coming in or going out... The waves are strong and very powerful. The current has been very forceful, but according to the lifeguards up the beach from us, that is good. A strong current keeps the run-outs from taking you out to sea.
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I have surfed on surf boards and boogie boards, but have never found an experience to rival that of body surfing. It is a connection with the wave that is complete. Catch it while it is rising, quickly get up to speed with it, and then, when you feel it 'break' all around you, try to be just a little in front of it... and get that 'changing of gears' sensation that rockets you to shore like a projectile. To day I had several fifty to sixty yard 'runs' in a series of perfect sets.
Not every wave is a 'rider'; the shape must be considered. Some are too small, some are too weak, some are 'doubled' and don't lift you properly and some are just way too big and powerful to even think about riding. Some of these can 'tumble' you like clothes in a dryer.
We surfed all afternoon between a few powerful thunderstorms that clear the beaches for 30 minutes at a time. It was the only day we had to get out for weather since we have been here.
They are sometimes too powerful, and if you decide to ride one of the Rogue Waves, or what we call the Monsters, you might just find yourself picked up about four feet above the bottom, and then slammed down upon the hard-packed sand.
You can never turn your back on the ocean waves. There are instances where very tall and powerful 'double overhead' waves come out of nowhere, and you have to be ready to negotiate them in an instant. There were some the other day about fifteen feet high, from the floor of the ocean. Scary-looking things that you do not want to misjudge; either go over them, or under them. Don't let them crash down upon you! It's like being hit by a train!
I have over fifteen years experience riding these waves, and I know that I am not 24 years old anymore. I don't care to risk getting up with a bloody nose, or being plowed by a 'beast' like I used to do. At 51, you choose your battles out here more carefully.
The best wave is one that you think is just a little bit too big; that is the one that will pay off in the best ride. It's a rougher ride, and its a faster ride... and its a long one, usually all the way in to shore...
Your eyes are shut, to keep the salt bath out. You are in the dive position, and literally being shot out of a cannon, hurling towards the shore.
You have to know just about when to drop your hands, during the ride, and 'sense bottom'. The water will be about ten inches deep when you 'terminate', plow your hands, and come to a complete stop. Otherwise, your belly will 'drag', and that sort of smarts!
A good ride is exhilarating, a definite 'rush', and a terrific sense of accomplishment that you 'made' it to shore untumbled and in one piece.
It is also terrific exercise; one gets 'fit' doing this every day, as we do it. I will surely miss my daily 'taking of the waters' when I have to leave here again!
